Gauges

Q: How do I install the gauges???
A: Very carefully! If you have an NA (mk1, M1, 89-97), check out this set of instructions. If you have an NB (mk2, M2, 98-05), check out the instructions over here. NC folks: here's a link for you too. There's tons of pix and a helpful FAQ to get you finished with the job and drinking beer before the afternoon.


Q: I live in (insert country here) and don't have an MPH speedometer. Can you make me a set of Version: (insert gauges here) in kph?
A: Of course! All of my gauges can be produced in any scale Mazda ever made. Here in the US, we get 140 mph speedometers and imperial units on our water and oil gauges. In the UK, they have some imported Eunos Roadsters with a speedometer set to match the 180 km/h scale (you get either 110 or 120 mph on the top end depending on your model). In Europe and beyond you have 220 km/h on your MX-5 clocks. And in Japan and anywhere Eunos Roadsters were imported, you get 180 km/h speedometers. I CAN MAKE GAUGES TO FIT ALL OF THESE CARS! You just have to specify it in your order.


Q: My gauges only read up to 140 mph. Will the new gauges that read 160 mph still work in my car?
A: Yes! I just add an extra bit to the end of the scale. This changes nothing in how your speedometer or tach works. The tach can actually read to a bit beyond 10,000 rpm before it stops spinning (it won't go back around on itself) and the speedometer works the same way. The 0-8000 and 0-140 mph scales are an exact match for your OEM gauges.


Q: How do I move the needle to the new zero position on the new tach and speedometer? Do I need to adjust the gears?
A: It is very very easy. No gear changes required. In order to change out your gauge faces, you need to remove the needles. When you put them back on after the swap, you just set the needle at a different spot. The gauge has no idea that anything is different. It will keep working as it always has, even though it is now resting at 10 o'clock (or 1, or 6, or whatever).


Q: What kind of gloves should I buy to install these?
A: I ship surgical exam gloves with every gauge set I make. They're the best disposable gloves I've ever used. But if you need extras, get some non-powdered gloves. The higher quality the better.


Q: How do I remove dust from the gauges?
A: I send a dust cloth with every gauge set I make. Wipe quickly and gently. Don't try to work at anything that looks embedded in the gauge surface. If you do somehow get the gauges muddy or dirty, a microfiber cloth and glass cleaner (non-ammonia and safe for tint) will work. The gauges don't mind getting wet.


Q: How are these gauges made?
A: By magic robots and special printers.

The gauges start as a sheet of clear plastic which is laser cut to the correct shapes. Then they're loaded in one of two industrial printers in the revlimiter workshop. From there, they're digitally silkscreened with the gauge art.


Q: What do you use to make the gauges?
A: Plastic. Clear polycarbonate with a proprietary finish for my printing process. It's not cheap, but it IS awesome, optically clear, and perfect for these gauge faces.


Q: Why should I buy your gauges?
A: Because you like them? Because you want a Made-in-the-USA product from an extremely small, boutique shop? (It doesn't get smaller than one man.) Because I work hard to make each gauge set as stylish and unique as possible and yet maintain the accuracy of the stock gauges? Take your pick.


Q: Can I customize the gauges?
A: Sure! While I prefer to sell them as their original versions, I can definitely customize any style to fit your needs. Check out my Modified Gauges and Custom Gauges in the store.


Q: Can I have a set of your gauges converted to white faces?
A: Yes! However, it won't be cheap. Transforming the gauge from dark format to white involves changing each and every aspect. Expect this request to be just about double the base price of a gauge set.


Q: How long does it take to receive my gauges?
A: Short answer: I try to get orders settled in less than a week. Usually in a few days.
Long answer: Unfortunately, that doesn't always happen. As I said, I'm one guy. I can create a set of gauges in about 2 days once a design is finished. This design work usually involves a few emails and different gauge versions mailed back and forth. This is why I do orders over email. That way, I can tell you how long the wait is, how deep the wait list is, and when I can start work on your gauges.


Q: Where do you ship?
A: Everywhere! Most of my customers are in the US, but I ship a few sets per week to Europe and beyond.

HVAC Panel

Q: How are these made?
A: With the same machinery as my gauge faces.


Q: So, I can touch these?
A: Yup! The HVAC panel is quite robust. It is at least as strong and resilient as the stock panel.


Q: Could I have these customized to match my gauges?
A: YES! Thanks to my new monster cutting robot, I am able to produce HVAC panels much faster and with higher quality than when I started making them. I now offer HVAC panels to match many of my gauges. Want a match to a gauge set you don't see? Just ask.


Q: How do I install the HVAC Panel?
A: Check out my HVAC Panel Install. It's very easy. The hardest part is getting the little slider knobs off. You have to figure out where the screws are (on the bottom) and find a tiny screwdriver to fit. You'll also have to source a little double-sided tape. Nothing to it besides that.

Window Switches

Q: How are these made?
A: Check out my Retro Window Switch blog post. All of the information is posted there, including sources for parts so that you can make your own. There's no secret or proprietary information here. I'd love for you to make your own. I just am able to occasionally offer these switches for sale so that you don't have to make them yourself.

However, my switches are not made this way anymore. They're roughly made the same, but I no longer use any OEM parts. I make the wiring harness myself with an OEM-compatible connector on the end. I also cast my own plastic switch frames. These are molded from a stock window switch that has been hacked up correctly and reinforced at key points. The end result is superior to the old switches I made from stock units.


Q: So... can I buy one? Do I have to wait long?
A: I almost always have window switches in stock. The controlling factor now is keeping the components in stock, not receiving core returns from customers. I don't always have all the components, but I usually do. Worst case - you have to wait a week while I order more industrial switches or have more plates water jetted.


Q: Tell me about the core charge.
A: I used to use a core charge to do the NA window switches. That gave incentive for folks to mail me back their old OEM units for modification. I no longer do this.


Q: Will there ever be an NB retro window switch?
A: I really hope so. As of 9/2013, I've been working on these.

Vent Rings

Q: How are these made?
A: I don't know! These are the one thing I have a shop make for me. They're aluminum rings. They're also all powdercoated. Powdercoated, not anodized! The polished ones that Sharka has worn for years are hand polished and then clear powdercoated over top. That makes them very robust and never require polishing.


Q: What different colors can I get?
A: Just about any powder-coated color you can imagine. Sorry I don't have a list of colors to share. My machinist doesn't have a website nor do they have a single catalog. Just ask me and I'll tell you if I can get it or not.


Q: How do I install the vent rings?
A: It's maybe the easiest part you'll ever install on a car. I include an installation document with the rings. It's a single sheet of paper. You need to source a method of attachment. I prefer clear silicon, but double sided tape works as well. Sorry I don't include any silicon with the rings. I've just not found a bunch of tiny tubes yet.